Saturday, June 23, 2012
CLAUDE MONTANA : FASHIONABLY RADICAL
For all the glam dressing PASTICHE ( fabulous way to say "copy") on the catwalk paying (subconsciously) homage to the GREAT "scientists" of fashion, there is no definitive TOME of the originals but there is of who took the "inventor" tag. Like looking at the shoulder pads and thinking NO OTHER name but Claude Montana!
His name is iconic.... his creations more so. There have been a number of TREATISE that will prove my declaration, but for the fashion connoisseurs... it's moot and academic.
As far as I can remember, this couturier's collections were my first grossly admired lot. So powerful were it's influence on me that when I was sketching I tend to remember his models' poses and transpose them to my sheets.
His stint at LANVIN highlighted the Montana lexicon when it comes to powerful statement dressing. He focused on the colour (BOLD and BRIGHT) and materials of each garment rather than trivial details.
I can't help but draw a parallel between his clothes and that of the current Lanvin lord, ALBER ELBAZ. His satin trenches, blouson cashmere coats and heavy embroideries find contemporary parallels in Elbaz's works.
He greatly admired Mme.GRES (1910-1993) as a couturiere, specializes in
strong colours, monochromatic fabrics, and lots of leather and wool. His
classic and structural pantsuits feature razor-sharp tailoring and
strong silhouettes with dramatic proportions. His collections were always peppered with geometry of form and Scheherazade of minimal decorations. In the '80's we can arguably say that every designer was measured against Montana — either a shoulder-padded
co-conspirator in his 'revolution' of woman's silhouette, or a reaction
against that inverted triangle that came to characterize the decade.
During the 90's, his style gradually changed and became more simple and
sophisticated. His collections announced a whole new set of styles with
exquisite drapery, fluidity, movement and minimal construction. He used a
much more feminine look.
All his contributions to the fashionlandia regrettably were almost eclipsed by him becoming most famous for bankrupting Lanvin (costing them a reported $50 million) at the near end of his life as one that was "a member of the creme de la creme". But for me, he's STILL one of the few who DEFINED the 80's and continues to be an underlying force behind today's styles. He was a FASHION DICTATOR who remained true to himself... who enjoyed his glorious heydey to perfection.
Another brilliant artist who made an untimely exit........... I hope he's remembered as a SUCCESS, by the amount of his contributions to the industry as an ART form, by his innovations, by his visions....
.... and never be as FRACASO!
Friday, June 22, 2012
The ONE King in the world of McQueens!
THE ONE TO BEAT... a headline in the style section of the Philippine Star!
Sounds like a "threat".... a "dare"... a "battle cry"!
Would anyone dare to CHALLENGE a haute couture master!
His dresses have this eerie resemblance to the creations of another fashion icon... the legendary... the late Alexander McQueen! In fact, he dedicated his just concluded runway presentation in Manila as a tribute, among anything else, to him.
He's very PROUD to accept that comparison, almost with an embarrassed smile that seems to mean that he's not considering himself as there YET!......... But certainly not so far either.
He's very PROUD to accept that comparison, almost with an embarrassed smile that seems to mean that he's not considering himself as there YET!......... But certainly not so far either.
It's an unusual sight when a creator of a collection of marvelous masterpieces speaks and acts in a very humble way. Worthy of boasting a whole lot about his achievements being the reason for the spectacular looks of the most sought after celebrities of our time. The aesthetic aspects of his pieces are beyond beautiful. Add to that the masterful craftmanships that's undeniable having a closer inspection of his fabulously extravagant works.
We can only watch with all admiration and pride the evolution of this beautiful individual's career as it blossoms before our eyes... In retrospect, he is still in the process of climbing to a much higher position in the field of high fashion. Far from his peak, but what a very impressive sets of credentials he has amassed so far.
The most important thing is that he is as 'normal' a person as he is when he is ACTUALLY "NOT"... anymore.
CONGRATULATIONS... not only for your recent successes, but for making the Filipinos very very proud!
I always wanted to tag him "the KING of McQueens"!
As for the "challenge",,, we can see that there are a number of "pretenders" as well!... Seriously brilliant designers with fresh and modern visions paired with high level of creativity. The Competition is stiff but healthy!
So far he's leading the cream of the crop...
FURNE......... THE ONE................ THE ONLY!
SCARLET DAY at the BIG APPLE
RED HEAD turning heads at Time Square.
ROCKY GATHERCOLE is like lightning... He strikes in unexpected places! He never misses on his promise that he'll make a big NOISE in a very famous city. True to his words......... it was no less than NEW YORK CITY!
ROCKY GATHERCOLE is like lightning... He strikes in unexpected places! He never misses on his promise that he'll make a big NOISE in a very famous city. True to his words......... it was no less than NEW YORK CITY!
RED... SCARLET... FLAMING, as the color of the city's hero fire fighter's trucks, was the theme! The symbolism of the color speaks much about the character of the avant garde couturier.... FIERY... FIESTY... FIERCE!
Not contented with the 'shock and awe' intensity of his fashion show's impact, he ventured into a new territory... making the busy streets with yellow cabs rushing all over the place, his "new" catwalk.
You can just imagine the commotion created by the spectacle. He never gave a hint... that he will do the photoshoot right on the spot either.
It was chaotic confusion in an entertaining way. Native New Yorkers were treated to a glimpse of the products of a talent that comes in rarity.
In the midst of CONCRETE JUNGLE ............ where dreams are made up.
It's just the tip of the iceberg, as we say ! We ain't seen nothing yet. The bigger and better shows of magic are still to come. Something's are in the process of polishing......... and it will be wonderful.... and exciting!
Watch out!...... the lightning might strike again!
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